How to repair Broken Trail Remote on Specialized Turbo Levo 2018 and the pinout for bonus

Specialized e-bikes utilize control cables with a braided wire construction that exhibit a lower tolerance for mechanical stress and extended vibration compared to more industrial durable options. These cables, specifically those associated with the handlebar-mounted remote buttons, are susceptible to fatigue-induced failure due to their fine gauge and hard braided design. This can manifest as button malfunction after a period of sustained use, as experienced in my case after two to three years of riding.

And now the sad part of the story… Replacement part price. For 130 euros, those buttons better come pre-attached to a small gold-plated unicorn. Four buttons? Absolutely criminal!


  1. Housing Access: The remote enclosure utilizes a sonic welding technique, essentially creating a permanent closure between the two halves. Destructive disassembly is required. A thin, flat-head screwdriver can be used to carefully pry open the housing seam, but caution is necessary to avoid damaging the internal flexible printed circuit board (FPCB).
  2. Cable Removal: Once the housing is breached, the control cable can be severed near the entry point. This allows for the complete removal of the remote unit.
  3. Sealant Removal: The remaining challenge lies in the removal of the silicone sealant. This process requires meticulous cleaning with a sharp tool to scrape away the adhesive from the wires and FPCB. Special attention should be paid to the vicinity of the soldering pads on the circuit board, as these delicate components are susceptible to damage from excessive force.

The pinout:

1 = “S”, 2 = “+”, 3 = “-“, 4 = Foot, 5 = Common

The pinout (see above)

Some additional photo:

Now it’s time to assemble the thing back in one piece.


  1. Cable Installation: The remaining cable end should have removed the outside isolation about 5-8mm and then striped wires about 1mm and finally carefully threaded through the cleared opening in the housing.
  2. Soldering and Verification: Following the reference photo (above), meticulously solder the cable connections to their corresponding solder pads on the FPCB. Once complete, a thorough functional test should be performed to ensure proper button operation before proceeding.
  3. Sealing and Enclosure: A thin layer of thermal adhesive should be strategically applied around the cable entry point on the exterior of the housing. This serves as a secondary barrier to contain any potential epoxy leakage during the next step.
  4. Epoxy Application: Prepare the epoxy and carefully inject a controlled amount around the cable entry point from the inside of the housing. This creates a watertight seal around the cable penetration.
  5. Enclosure Closure: A small amount of epoxy should also be applied along the seam where the two housing halves meet. Carefully press the housing sections together, ensuring proper alignment, and allow the epoxy to cure completely.

It may not win any awards for Most Attractive E-Bike Repair, but hey, duct tape and zip ties hold spaceships together, right?

Forget those overpriced, ‘designer’ buttons. This bad boy has got a custom, limited-edition, ‘I-fixed-it-myself’ look.

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